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ing came to an end in the 1950s, technology picked up and was used to mass-produce food,” Tomes says. “And by then people were just happy to have a decent quantity of food in their kitchens.”
They weren’t looking for cured meats, organic produce or beautiful presentation; they were looking for whatever they could get their hands on, and this prioritisation of quantity over quality prevailed for decades, meaning a generation was brought up with food that couldn’t compete with neighbouring France, Italy, Belgium or Spain.
Before star chefs such as Oliver began making cooking fashionable, it was hard to find a restaurant in London that was open after 9pm. But in recent years the capital’s culinary
（烹饪的） scene has developed to the point that it is now confident of its ability to please the tastes of any international visitor.
With the opening of Alfie’s in April, and others such as The Pawn, two years ago, modern British food has made its way to Hong Kong.“With British food, I think that Hong
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